The Medina of Tunis: a one-day walking guide for tourists

The Medina of Tunis is one of the best-preserved old cities in the Arab world, listed by UNESCO since 1979. Its 700 monuments, palaces, mosques, mausolea and madrasas, are folded into a maze of vaulted lanes that have been continuously inhabited for over a thousand years. The right approach is not to see everything; it is to walk it slowly with a few clear anchors.

Start at Bab Bhar (Place de la Victoire)

Begin at Bab Bhar, the gate that connects the modern Avenue Bourguiba to the old town. From here, Rue Jamaa Zitouna leads you straight up to the Zitouna Mosque, the spiritual heart of the medina. Take your time on the climb, the souks branch off on both sides.

The essential stops

• Zitouna Mosque, the great mosque (courtyard accessible to non-Muslims).
• Souk El Attarine, the perfumers' souk.
• Souk des Chéchias, where the traditional red felt caps are still hand-made.
• Dar Ben Abdallah, an 18th-century palace and museum of urban traditions.
• Tourbet El Bey, the royal mausoleum of the Husseinite dynasty.

Where to stop for lunch

Two reliable options: Dar Belhadj or Fondouk El Attarine for a sit-down meal in a restored courtyard, or a quick lunch at one of the small chic-tea-rooms in Rue Sidi Ben Arous. For something cheap and authentic, follow the locals to a chapati or kafteji stand on Rue de la Kasbah.

Practical tips

Wear closed shoes, the lanes can be slippery in the morning when shops are washed down. Take cash, many small shops do not accept cards. Avoid Friday around midday near the Zitouna Mosque, prayers fill the area. Consider a Rumble taxi for the return: after a few hours of walking, the climb back to Bab Bhar feels longer than it is.

The Medina is not a museum, it is a living quarter. The best advice we give every visitor is the same: get a little lost, on purpose.

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